Riding 2Up

Sent 18 March 2009

Riding2up Bulletin 18/03/09 (Day 115)

We are now in Kathmandu, Nepal, having air freighted Francois from Bangkok on the 12th March. But before we get into too much detail about Nepal and the polluted bustling capital let us close out the SE Asia chapter with a little on our final weeks in Laos and Thailand.
 
Since we were turned away from China we resolved not to let past misadventures affect the future ones and looking forward to new adventures and with Nepal firmly in our sights we headed towards the Laos, Thai border at Huay Xai, Chiang Kong. The road was one of the best motorcycling roads in Laos with only patches of dirt and roadworks, otherwise the sweeping ascents and descents through the picturesque country side were pleasurable, well with the exception of a 4WD that cut a bit close and in retaliation I pushed (more like a loud hit at 40km/h) with my palm his rear vision mirror. Immediately he stopped with a skid on the gravel, I sped up, leaving in a hurry not wanting to have a confrontation. Yes that's right I'm still my antagonist self, need I say more.
 
As we would only have a 15 day permit for Thailand we spent several days on the Mekong border town of Huay Xai in Laos preparing our travel plans from Bangkok to Nepal. This was very helpful and a good use of our time as it meant we weren't racing around Bangkok fighting with traffic in the humidity.
 
Our next stop was ChiangMai where we stocked up on Parts for Francois (at an inflated price) and had a few essential components serviced at the BMW dealer. On our way to Bangkok we were exposed to the extreme heat and humidity of central Thailand. The heat was so bad that we had were forced to stop and relax in the relative cool of a village to escape the back burning and over 35degree heat. Our plans to visit Sukkothai historical parks were quickly dashed as we needed time to rest before heading into Bangkok on the 7th March.
 
As we had been recommended to enter Bangkok (BKK) on Sunday evening to avoid the worst of the traffic we stopped for an extended lunch at Ayuttaya by the canals. At 4pm we were tired of waiting and keen to enter Bangkok before dark so we left to complete to remaining 70kms. The trouble with BKK is that motorcycles aren't allowed on expressways or tollways, this makes navigation a lot more difficult as sign posting on minor roads is less reliable. On the way into BKK from the north we missed our exit and were pulled up by a motorcycle policeman on the expressway insisting we pay the 500baht fine at the police station. This sounded like a hassle and would take us off route and a shortcut to getting lost. I bargained with the policeman eger to keep moving as we had been pulled up in the left-hand lane and traffic was passing us with only centimetres to spare as there was no road shoulder. We were between a solid concrete barrier and speeding buses and my nerves were beginning to fray, the officer settled for 300Baht (AUD$15), looking either way (as if to check there were no colleagues around to witness) he took the money and motioned us on. This was our only hassle, the next exit was Ratchadipisek and then we headed to our accommodation in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok without making one wrong turn we arrived before sundown!
 
Bangkok was, as are most capitals, busy and polluted but we managed to find a bit of timeout from our logistical organisations to enjoy the river and a few markets and temples that draw hordes of tourists and touts each day. The sweltering heat was at times infuriating and disgusting but mostly just oppressive leaving us in search of an air conditioned shopping centre or in want of a cold shower and ice cold beer. Any more than 10days in Bangkok and we would've been eaten alive and spat out on the gutter begging for passage directly to our destination. Luckily we got out with our sanity and wallets intact although barely after a couple of hefty sums for air freight and new tyres.
 
To help pass the time and occupy us somewhat during downtime we began reading aloud to each other the novel Holy Cow by Sarah McDonald (ex triple-j host) about her experiences in India. This provided us with a new form of cheap entertainment that we could share and would keep us amused and keep us from going loopy in shoebox sized hotel rooms. It's been especially good in Nepal where there is only 4-8hrs of electricity per day and only so many things you can do by torch or candle light if you get the picture.
 
Nepal is more than Kathmandu valley, or at least that's what we've been told and are struggling to believe at the moment. We've managed a couple of excursions to the surrounding mountains, Daman at 2322m and Nagarakot at 2100m but alas no view of the Himalayas due to the dense smog and haze blanketing the entire region. We are hoping for something special, a big wind or huge down pour to rid this city of its pollution affliction but we know it's unlikely. Now we have our Indian and Pakistani visas we will head out of Kathmandu in search of the real Nepal.
 
Photos and Map updates will ensue bandwidth permitting...
 

Best Regards,

Pascal & Arja

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