Riding 2Up

June 20th, 2009

Esfahan, Iran

Our introduction to Iran left a lot to be desired and it's only been the hospitable, warm and friendly people that have come to it's rescue. It's impossible to erase the negative experiences of our first two days but I
have to give it to the citizens of Iran, suppressed by this regime and forced to be ultra conservative in public, they are genuine people who are very keen to please and will go out of their way to help. Take for instance
just yesterday, Friday, there was nothing open as everything is shut on Friday's for a national day of muslim prayer and one kind english teacher from Shiraz in Esfahan on holidays offered to walk with us to the fruit and
vegetable market 20mins away so we could by some food and at least eat something. I need to interject that the food in Iran has been very disappointing, there is little to no choice in restaurants which are expensive and serve either chicken kebab or lamb kebab with rice. The only other alternative has been greasy fastfood joints that serve pizzas or sandwiches with heavily processed meat tasting like devon. It's ok once but not three meals a day, the only other food we've seen people eating was some kind of sheep head stew for breakfast or very sugary ice cream. There is way too much sugar in the Iranian diet.

The countryside has been a scenic wonderland from mountains to desert oasis and salt lakes, the ride has been varied and spectacular. We are looking forward to seeing more of this country and luckily for us we were able to
extend our visas easily as the original 7 days left us stranded in Shiraz (no there is no wine in this country it's a dry country, bugger!). We are now visiting Esfahan and there is a lot to see, from huge bazaars to amazing tile mosaiques and leafy green parks to stunning mosques and minarets, it's no wonder why this city is a the capital of tourism in Iran.

June 24 2009

Tabriz, Iran

Iran has been a wonderful country for travelling if we forget about several early incidents. We have met wonderful people hospitable and generous with their time and very welcoming. The roads are great and the petrol is relatively inexpensive which makes for easy travelling. We have found many campng spots in the wild and Iran is huge on the outdoors and picnics. Iranians always have a mat and cooking gear in the trunk for those everyday picnics by the roadside, near a river, ontop a mountain or where ever the desire arises.

It is with a mix of emotions stirred up by a collage of colours, images and experiences that we will be leaving this troubled country. We are lucky to have met so many people and been invited to their homes and it has been clear to us that as with most countries that are ruled by religion, there are always people who don`t agree and flaunt the laws opting to break the mold and seek change. In Iran most people that were for reform were younger, those with a bright future ahead of themselves and willing to dream of a more liberal Iran. I think it is with this generation we connected the most, not having the everyday freedom we take for granted is tolerable for a short two week trip but for a lifetime, it errodes away at ones self esteem and sense of being weakening the strong and oppressing the weak until all hope and dream is lost. We often saw the look of forlorn persians, exhausted by the inability to express themselves without being silenced or fearful of the consequences. It is a lot to absorb as a tourist and perhaps we didn`t want to accept this reality for our Iranian friends but the simple fact is that the majority of Iranians don`t travel as they are refused a passport.

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